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Any ideas on what could be wrong?

cpd109

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I have a couple of issues with a 1911 and hope someone here has some experience with what appears to be a demonically possessed firearm.

Several years ago, I bought a used Springfield 1911 that was made in Brazil. I didn't notice where it was made when I bought it because I was so glad to get tall sights rather than the low ones usually found on the guns. I had no issues with it that I can recall and put it away for a while. Recently, I got the 1911 out and have been shooting it, with both reloaded ball and SWC ammo and some Federal ball I recently bought. Things are not going well with it although it does shoot with the usual 1911 accuracy.

The first problem is that in about every 30 rounds fired, I will get one case whose mouth is chewed up. The chewed areas reasonably match the barrel where the lip extends past the end of the chamber going towards the shooter. (I determined this because when I put the dented case, mouth first, into the lip area, it is a very good fit on it.) The case mouth is dented (as in folded in) in at about the 2 and 10 o'clock positions. I will try to get a photo posted soon. Twice in 100-150 rounds, the pistol had turned the case around and of course, there was a stoppage. When this happened, the mouth of the case was facing the shooter. After a case has been chewed, it is not salvageable.

The second problem is that the ejector has brass colored particles around it (on the flat surface that the ejector is installed on) after shooting for a 30 round string of the case. Also, it is leaving a clearly defined, shiny dent on the surface where the head stamp is on the case from where it is ejected. To ensure that mark is being left by the ejector, I rotated each case to a certain point where the ejector should strike the case. 100% of the time, I was able to predict where the mark would appear on the case so I am certain about that. So there is something wonky there too. I checked the ejector and it has a very small amount of movement in it although I suspect it should have none. I guess this is more of an observation, but could be important since I don't know what the problem is.

I mentioned the types of ammo I shot so that would get it off the suspect list right away. I also used several other magazines that work well in my other 1911s so I don't think it is either one of those common issues.

So far, I replaced the recoil (and FP spring) with 18 1/2 pound springs and seen 3 (maybe 4 gunsmiths- I wasn't sure one of them was actually a smith) and left it with the only 1 of the 4 because he had effectively helped me once before. No one had any idea about what could be wrong. The good smith that I did leave it with bent the extractor a little to increase the spring action, but nothing has changed regarding any problems. The other folks just wanted to me to leave it so they could look it over. I had it with me when I visited them so I was reluctant to leave it.

So, if anyone here has encountered serous dents in brass and and loose particles of brass laying around and and dented case head stamps, I would love to hear from you. Thank to all.
 

hkshooter

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The ejector is working fine. They dent the case head, yes. That's how I know how many times a case has been reloaded.

The case mouth being damaged is odd. Is there a lip on the mouth of the chamber? This one doesn't make sense.

The round being flipped around sounds like an extractor issue but may also be related to the recoil spring. That's a bit heavy for run of the mill 1911 with ball. I'd put a 16 in it and try again.
 

1911Ron

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I have a Springfield WWII commemorative model and it too was made in Brazil and it shoots ball and HP very well, I've even shot what ever I scrounged from the bottom of the range bag (a mixed lot for sure) and it didn't even hiccup, so no worries on where it was made.
 

hemcon9

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I don’t disagree with what’s been said so far. Sometimes 1911s will ding up case mouths by striking the bottom or the rear of the ejection port.
The way to minimize that is to lower and flair the ejection port.

In a perfect world, the ejector should not be loose. In reality, lots have some kind of small movement. Check to see that the pin that retains it is still present.

An 18.5lb recoil spring is the go to weight for lots of 1911 pistols. Depends on the ammo you’re shooting though.
16lbs. Is usually factory stock. 16lbs. Is good for switching between regular ball and 185gr wadcutter match.

You haven’t really had enough failures to reach a conclusion. I’m suspecting the hand loaded ammunition right off.

Marks from the ejector on the brass is normal. So is flecks of brass. I would recheck extractor tension and have a good look at the extractor hook to see it’s in good shape.

Lastly, clean breech face and barrel very well and retest with several mags of factory ammo. Use only one well proven magazine for the retest.
 

cpd109

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Did you clean all of the gummy oil or grease off first and then put fresh oil or grease before shooting it?
Yes, I usually clean guns after shooting so it would be fresh oil. I even cleaned the gun before shooting and left it dirty and unlubed so gun smith might see a rub I missed. Thanks.
 

cpd109

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I have a Springfield WWII commemorative model and it too was made in Brazil and it shoots ball and HP very well, I've even shot what ever I scrounged from the bottom of the range bag (a mixed lot for sure) and it didn't even hiccup, so no worries on where it was made.
Thanks. I had no reportable problems before.
 

cpd109

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Extractor is loosing the case. Either reset the tension on the Extractor or get a new EGW part and fit it. I wouldn't do anything else to the gun until.you fix the Extractor issue.
The gun smith did adjust the extractor but I think he did that because there was really not much else he could do. I replaced the extractor first thing when things were not going well and forgot to mention it. (I had bought the extractor a couple of years ago and installed it. Had issues with it and thought the problem is caused by the new one, so I put the old one back in.) I compared the extractors side by side and saw no differences between the 2. I will go back and reexamine them though as I agree that the extractor is most likely the culprit. I also understand there is a test for the extractor where the whole slide is removed and a spent case is inserted in the extractor and then the slide is manhandled a bit to see if the case is loose. Do you know anything about that test?
Thank you!
 

hemcon9

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That extractor test is ball park only. There’s really no substitute for experience or trial and error.
Rim thickness and condition can change how the extractor performs.
The extractor hook needs to be burr free and shaped properly. There are photos and diagrams on line that show how they should appear.
 

gw104

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Did you "fit" the new extractor or just install it as ? There's a lot more to than just setting the tension.
Go go the 1911 forum, select Gunsmithing , look for the sticky aboit
Fitting extractors by Steve in Allentown. Read it and follow instructions.
 

cpd109

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I don’t disagree with what’s been said so far. Sometimes 1911s will ding up case mouths by striking the bottom or the rear of the ejection port.
The way to minimize that is to lower and flair the ejection port.

In a perfect world, the ejector should not be loose. In reality, lots have some kind of small movement. Check to see that the pin that retains it is still present.

An 18.5lb recoil spring is the go to weight for lots of 1911 pistols. Depends on the ammo you’re shooting though.
16lbs. Is usually factory stock. 16lbs. Is good for switching between regular ball and 185gr wadcutter match.

You haven’t really had enough failures to reach a conclusion. I’m suspecting the hand loaded ammunition right off.

Marks from the ejector on the brass is normal. So is flecks of brass. I would recheck extractor tension and have a good look at the extractor hook to see it’s in good shape.

Lastly, clean breech face and barrel very well and retest with several mags of factory ammo. Use only one well proven magazine for the retest.
I have used my 200 gr SWC, 230 ball reloads and Federal 230 ball ammo (commercial) and it happens with all of the ammo. I also used different magazines and it happened with them also.
The dings on the cases are at about the 10 and 2 o'clock positions when the unmarked area is held at the 12 o'clock position.
Thanks.
 

cpd109

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O
Did you "fit" the new extractor or just install it as ? There's a lot more to than just setting the tension.
Go go the 1911 forum, select Gunsmithing , look for the sticky aboit
Fitting extractors by Steve in Allentown. Read it and follow instructions.
OK, thanks.
 

Steve in Allentown PA

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All the guys who called out the extractor as the problem, recommended Hilton's 10-8 site, mentioned my little tutorial on fitting extractors, and said to fix the extractor problem first are right.

My tutorial includes Hilton's extractor test: https://www.1911forum.com/threads/steve-in-allentown-extractor-fitting.829865/

What's happening is the extractor is losing control of the fired case before it can be ejected. The case ends up floating in space above the magazine until the slide comes screaming forward and slams it into the barrel hood. Here are some pics that may look familiar to you.




 

cpd109

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All the guys who called out the extractor as the problem, recommended Hilton's 10-8 site, mentioned my little tutorial on fitting extractors, and said to fix the extractor problem first are right.

My tutorial includes Hilton's extractor test: https://www.1911forum.com/threads/steve-in-allentown-extractor-fitting.829865/

What's happening is the extractor is losing control of the fired case before it can be ejected. The case ends up floating in space above the magazine until the slide comes screaming forward and slams it into the barrel hood. Here are some pics that may look familiar to you.




Yes- that is exactly what was happening. And the tutorial with the extractor was great- no more chewed brass. And so simple to adjust and check. I wonder who adjusted all the US military 1911s when parts were replaced unless the clearances were "close enough for gov't work" that no adjustment was needed. Hmmm.

Anyway, it appears to be working and I thank everyone who offered a suggestion for their help.
 
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